Ultimate Guide to Exmouth
Exmouth is a place unlike anywhere else – where the winter sun never stops shining and you have complete access to Australia’s only fringing reef right from the shore. The landscape is raw and rugged, but it’s what’s on offer off shore that draws people to this deserted oasis.
We spent a full winter season here in 2021 and fell in love with the laid back yet adventurous lifestyle so much that we came back again the following year for a whopping 6.5 months. When we say this place knows how to draw you in (and keep you), we aren’t kidding!
Let’s get a lay of the land.
Exmouth is located on the North West Cape, about a 14 hour drive north of Perth. It truly is one of the most remote places in Australia and you definitely feel that when you arrive.
A great part about this area is the fact that it’s situated on a peninsula, providing opportunities to explore so many spots on either side and almost always have an off-shore beach day (unless that infamous Northerly wind kicks in).
The town itself is on the gulf side, and is the only place on the peninsula with fuel, food, etc. which is worth keeping in mind for trips into the National Park on the west side. For reference, the entrance to Cape Range National Park is about 50km from the town!
Map courtesy of Protect Ningaloo.
Getting to Exmouth
You can get to Exmouth via plane (about a 2 hour flight from Perth) or car (about a 14 hours drive). The most popular way to experience Exmouth is via caravan, campervan, 4WD set up…etc. mostly because of how remote the area is. If we’ve learned anything from our time in Western Australia, it’s that everything is SO spread out. As mentioned previously, just getting from the town of Exmouth to the entrance of the national park is a massive drive, which is worth taking into consideration if you’re planning on flying and renting a car. This leaves us to our next topic –
Exmouth Accommodation
The options for accommodation in Exmouth are quite varied based on budget, but also very limited. Because the most popular way to get around up here is via campervan, we’ll focus on places to stay based on that type of travel. There are three main caravan parks to stay at:
One of the ‘nicer’ parks, with newly renovated ammenities and two swimming pools. Located directly opposite the visitor’s centre. This park is not dog friendly.
Located just down the road, it also has newly renovated ammenities but still has an older charm to it. Has a pool and is closer walking distance to the town’s main centre than the RAC caravan park. This park is dog friendly.
Yardie is the only caravan park located on the west side. We spent 99% of our time staying here simply because we liked the location – close to the beaches and National Park as well as the Tantabiddi boat ramp (where we launched our tinny). This park calls itself ‘wilderness camping’ as it’s definitely a bit more rustic than the other caravan parks, but it also has a pool and is dog friendly.
And then there’s of course camping within the Cape Range National Park, which you book through the DPAW website. Campsites are usually fully booked out 6 months in advance, but don’t get discouraged! We were able to snatch some last-minute cancellations by refreshing the website multiple times a day. Our favourite campsite in the national park was Osprey Bay, easily one of the most beautiful spots to stay in all of Australia.
Pro Tip: if you’re planning to stay in Exmouth for at least a few weeks, it’s worth reaching out to the above caravan parks to see if they have work-for-stay options available. We did this at Yardie Homestead for two winter seasons and loved being able to stay on the west side for free in exchange for cleaning the ammenities for an hour a day. A great option for those wanting to stay here for a long time!
Pro Tip #2: during peak season, the Ningaloo Caravan Park has an overflow section available. We suggest always trying to book ahead in this area if you plan to visit from June - September so you’re not stuck! Free camping is getting harder and harder every year here, as the rangers are really on it, so it’s best to just have a place to stay for peace of mind.
The Best Beaches in Exmouth
The good news about Exmouth is that basically every single beach here could be labelled as the ‘best.’ Seriously, turn down any dirt road off the main highway and you’re sure to find paradise. A few beaches we loved to frequent didn’t even have names! But to give you a start, here are some of our favourites:
Turquoise Bay
Easily one of the most iconic beaches in Exmouth, Turquoise Bay is known for it’s crystal clear turquoise waters and beautiful snorkelling. Located within Cape Range National Park, this beach is a real breath-taker but can also get very busy during peak time so we suggest getting there early. Bring your dive gear and do the drift snorkel (check for signs that go into more detail on this, as you’ll want to make sure you start at the right end of the beach to go with the current!).
Lakeside
Another spot in the national park, Lakeside is less known but boasts more marine life than other popular spots. When you get to the car park, walk to the left, across the river mouth and swim out just past there. You’ll find epic bombies crawling with so much life!
Jansz/Wobiri Beaches
One of the only strips of beach that you can see the ocean directly from the car park (hello beautiful spot to park the van up!), both Jansz and Wobiri are jaw-droppingly stunning beaches. Wobiri is a great spot for beginner surfers too, with its sandy bottom and gentle waves. If you’re up for an adventure, when the swell is low it’s worth swimming out from Jansz to the reef a few hundred metres out. We had a couple of amazing dives out there and loved how easy it was to access from the shore!
Dunes/Steps
The strip of beaches along the northern west side of the cape is a stunning place to soak up the sun. When the swell is up, you’ll find fun waves for all levels. When the swell is down, you’re treated to some lovely shore dives full of friendly turtles. Be sure to check out the Mildura Wreck at the very top of the cape – we’re told there’s some good diving there too!
The Best Hikes/Lookouts in Exmouth
Charles Knife Canyon
Definitely one of the most photographed parts of Exmouth is the Charles Knife Canyon lookout. You can drive straight up to it, and you're greeted with a magical view of the canyon and gulf down below. We recommend coming here for sunrise - the sun comes up directly between the valley and it's a gorgeous sight to see. There are some unofficial hikes around too, so go for a wander around before heading off.
Shothole Canyon
Located in a similar area to Charles Knife Canyon, Shothole Canyon is a fun drive if your vehicle is capable of rocky tracks. It's technically 4WD only, so proceed with caution! The track itself is the best part of this one; at the end you're greeted with a lovely view of the canyon (pictured above) but there isn't really anywhere to hike, so it's only worth it for the drive in our opinion. It's not something you'll regret if you don't do it, but it's a fun activity if it's cloudy/windy out and you're looking for something to do.
Mandu Mandu Gorge
If you’re in the national park and want to go for a little hike, Mandu Mandu Gorge is a great one. It starts off along the riverbed, where rock wallabies can be spotted on the cliffs nearby. If you’re with kids, you can just do the riverbed walk and turn around at the end, otherwise you’ll climb up the cliffs and return back to the carpark along the ridge. A fun hike to do if it’s a bit too windy for the sea.
Vlamingh Head Lighthouse
A great spot to watch the sunset, the lighthouse is a beautiful lookout of the tip of the cape, with views as far as the eyes can see in all directions. It gets busy for sunset, so be sure to grab a spot early!
Pro Tip: we found that this was also one of the best spots outside of town to get work done in the van as the signal (both Optus and Telstra) is fast. It’s also a good spot to watch the surf and wait for the tides to turn :)
Yardie Creek
Surprisingly, none of us every made it out to Yardie Creek during our time here but we’ve heard great things. It’s just over 80km from town, so go prepared with enough fuel. We’ve been told it’s a great place to rent a kayak and go for a paddle down the river. Worth checking if you’re down that way!
Snorkel/Dive Tours
Even though there are countless snorkel spots you can access directly from shore, there are still pros to going on tours if you want to venture out farther. Exmouth is the only place in Australia (maybe even the world?) where you can swim with whale sharks, which you can only do if you have access to a boat or go on a designated tour. Alongside the whale sharks, there’s also other amazing marine life to see on tours (manta rays, humpback whales, turtles and more) and the guides on board are experts in taking you to the best spots to see them all.
A few good whale shark tour companies we’ve either done or have been highly recommended are Ningaloo Blue, Ningaloo Discovery and Kings Reef Tours.
If you’re not looking for a full day whale shark tour but still want to snorkel farther out along the Ningaloo reef, we highly recommend doing a tour with Glass Bottom Boat. We loved the snorkel spots they took us to and the team is incredibly knowledgable about marine life. This is a great option for families, especially kids who are too scared to snorkel or don’t know how to swim yet as you can view the reef from the comfort of the boat. It’s also a much more affordable option compared to the whale shark tours.
What to do in the Exmouth Town
The town of Exmouth is tiny, but there are a few gems that we loved to frequent.
Froth Brewery and Whalebone Brewery
A cold beer or cider goes down so nicely after a day in the sun and surf. Both Froth and Whalebone are great places to catch up with fellow travellers over yummy food, good drinks and live music. We have to say though, the pizzas at Whalebone are a must!
Social Society Café
Exmouth’s trendiest café, it’s a perfect spot to start the day or get some work done on your laptop with fellow digital nomads. The raw vegan slices and frappés are heavenly!
Falafel and Donut Food Truck
On Sunday nights, Mutts café has a food truck that serves some of the most delicious falafels and donuts we’ve ever had. Definitely worth checking out.
Community Markets
A fun way to connect with the local community and support small businesses! Be sure to check the shire site for up-to-date info on dates and times.
Exmouth and Dogs
Travelling with dogs is a no brainer for us, but it does come with its challenges in certain places. Obviously, dogs aren’t allowed in the national park itself so you’ll need to find someone to watch your pup when you go in (the MadPaws app if good for this!). However, we were told by rangers that they’re also going to start cracking down on allowing dogs on the west side beaches in general, even outside the national park. The west side beaches are home to turtles’ nests from October to April, during which time no dogs are ever allowed on the beaches, however we were told that from 2023 onwards they are going to make it a blanket statement of no pets allowed at all, regardless of the time of the year. According to the rangers, dogs will likely still be allowed on the northern beaches (Dunes, Steps, etc.) but this is up to their discretion and can change at any time. This is a huge deal for anyone planning to visit Exmouth with their dogs, so keep it in mind for your travels. Of course, this could all just be hearsay and it might not be too enforced, so take it with a grain of salt :)
Dogs and 1080 Bait
Throughout a large portion of Exmouth, 1080 baiting is done which is incredibly dangerous if your dog ingests as it has no antidote and leads to a painful death. While we don’t agree with this practice in the slightest, it is something to be aware of if you’re bringing your dog on your travels. Please be cautious of signs indicating specific baiting areas but also know that birds and other animals can transport bait to other areas. You can find where baiting is done through the WA biodiversity page. If you’re in doubt and want an extra level of safety, you can give your dog a muzzle to wear when on beaches, which can be purchased via the vet to have it correctly sized. Otherwise, please keep an eye on your dog and don’t let it off leash unless you are monitoring it and it has good recall.
That just about wraps things up! We hope you enjoy Exmouth and all its beauty. Remember to always leave each area better than you found it and be respectful to the marine life and their home. If you have any further questions about this stunning place, feel free to reach out!
